Three of Scotland's best Highland gems

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Sep. 23, 2009
By David Brice, Golf International Inc.

The call of the Scottish Highlands is one that should be heeded by every golfer. The quality of golf in these northernmost reaches of the home of the game is beyond compare, with established names such as Royal Dornoch and Nairn, one of a kind championship links courses, worth traveling the globe to experience.

Fortrose & Rosemarkie just might be Scotland's testiest, unheralded gem.

A pure unadulterated links Fortrose Rosemarkie deserves the attention of every golfer visiting Scotland's Highlands.

The links artistry of Old Tom Morris puts Tain in a class of its own.

Tain offers golf the way the game was meant to be.

The great James Braid was responsible for the Brora of today.

Brora's masterful bunkering was a James Braid speciality.

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The added temptation of the sparkling new, Castle Stuart Links, destined to take its place alongside these notables, only adds to the undeniable draw of the Higlands. Dramatically beautiful Spey Valley Course is yet another recent addition, a parkland gem that is being compared to The Kings Course at Gleneagles. But Highland's golf has a depth and breadth that goes far beyond even the glories of these golf wonders.

The true gems of Highlands golf seldom carry names immediately recognized, neither do they undertake promotional campaigns to change their anonymity, which suits most, just fine. They may not be featured at the top of any course ranking list, but don't let that discourage you from playing one or two of them during your Highlands visit. These jewels hold a unique Scottish golf experience for every visitor and may well provide some of the fondest memories of your entire trip.

These are the real hidden gems of Scotland's golfing riches and the very essence of the game in its birthplace. They are here for the benefit of their members; to provide them with a course that can be enjoyed again and again, together with a clubhouse and a social gathering place. Many have thrived here for over a century, without more than the occasional visitor dropping by. But the heart-felt welcome, poured onto the few visitors and the true Scottish golf experience they hold for all, puts these clubs in a category entirely of their own and the Highlands abounds with such places.

Inevitably, time must be a consideration on any golf trip and there will certainly be a priority to play the established, trophy courses. In the Highlands, the so-called Hidden Gems are often not hidden at all and some of the best are located close by the same trophy courses you simply must play.

Royal Dornoch and Nairn Championship Course are certainly going to be two historic links courses that figure prominently on your must play list. Separated by a 60 mile stretch of scenic coastal road, there's a handsome collection of very special gems along the way and at most they require only the smallest deviation to visit. Whether you are staying in Inverness or Dornoch, or some other conveniently located hotel, you're never far from a few gems.

Fortrose and Rosemarkie may sound like an accounting firm, but it's a thoroughly delightful links layout, located barely 10 miles north of Inverness, on the ominously named, Black Isle. Dating from 1888, James Braid restyled this layout twice, performing something of a miracle in getting 18 holes onto such a pencil slim, sliver of land, surrounded by the waters of the Moray Firth, but what a fantastic layout he produced.

The open sea comes into play on 8 holes and pin-point accuracy is demanded from start to finish -- and don't forget to allow for the devilish wind that blows here with a uniquely passionate determination. This is a course packed with thrills, spills and excitement, even throwing in a little sightseeing for the same, amazingly modest green fee. On the 17th, watch out for the tombstone of the last Scottish witch, who was burned at the stake here in the 18th century. A little less gruesome is the show put on by the wild dolphins that always seem to congregate in this part of the Firth.

Braid's infamous bunkering, narrow, ribbon-like fairways and the often miniscule greens, all contribute to the spunky nature of this charmer, which is definitely one for the memory book.

The Royal Burgh of Tain, sits just off the main road from Inverness to Dornoch, a little more than halfway on the journey to play Royal Dornoch. Established here on the shores of the Firth of Forth during 9th century Viking times, little Tain (population 4,000) is a treasure trove of iconic Scottish discoveries, just waiting to impress those who will linger awhile.

The town received its Royal charter in 1066, one of the first Scottish towns to be so honored. Despite its small size it is filled with impressive architecture and narrow winding streets, evoking a very special charm. On the north side of town is the Glenmorangie whisky distillery and not far from the town center, a gem of a golf course that is as Scottish as any you will find in the home of golf -- a brilliant piece of design artistry from the greatest golf architect of the late 19th century, Old Tom Morris.

Bordered by a sheep farm on one side and the town on the other, it's ironic that such a golf treasure escapes most visiting golfers. Unpretentious and adverse to blowing its own trumpet, low profile, Tain Golf Club sits tucked away in this tiny town, too modest to tell the world just what they are missing as they speed by in their rented cars.

Tain Golf Club was founded in 1890 and Morris was brought in during the spring of that year to survey a parcel of land being considered for a golf course. He found only 15 natural locations for greens, so the end result in those uncomplicated days was a 15-hole course. Even this, the small membership found too expensive to maintain, reducing the layout to only 12 holes within two years of the opening.

Today, Tain sports a full 18-holes, including the 10 that have survived the 119 years since Old Tom Morris first laid them out. Not surprisingly, among "Tom's 10" are the best holes on a course filled with challenge - they stand as a tribute to the artistry and abilities of one of golf's greatest design talents ever.

Immaculately maintained with greens as good as presented by any Scottish layout, this combination of links and heathland boasts an idyllic setting. The course skirts the shoreline of the Dornoch Firth, with some dramatic views to a mountain backdrop, evoking a feeling of total solitude, even reverence -- it's another one for the memory book.

Founded in 1891, Brora Golf Club is located a short 20 miles along the coastline, north of Dornoch. The club commissioned James Braid to redesign their modest, 18-hole links layout in 1924, a job the greatest architect of the day achieved in grand style, changing a rather ordinary layout into a testing beauty, that deserves far more attention from visitors than is the case today.

A traditional out and back layout the course is squeezed onto a spectacular strip of shoreline barely wide enough for two fairways. In his trademark style, Braid worked with and took full advantage of the terrain as presented by nature, the result is a gloriously natural feeling where even his fabled bunkers meld perfectly into the surroundings.

Measuring a deceptively short 6,110 yards from the tips, Brora may seem at first glance to be a walk in the park, be warned, nothing could be further from the truth as every player quickly comes to understand the sheer brilliance of the design.

Tees and greens are often elevated or positioned between sand dunes, increasing the unpredictability of the incessant breezes that change velocity and direction on a whim. Brora is a character-filled layout, brimming over with personality and an obvious sense of humor. It delights in teasing, and frustrating with a seemingly endless variety of challenges that requires every club in the bag is used. And watch out for the testy par-3's each of which has its own special demands.

The fairways present a constantly changing playing surface in true linksland style, sometimes rippling, then surging to a crest, only to fall away in a rolling cascade of green. Bunkers are generously peppered throughout, always ingeniously positioned and at times ominously deep -- avoid them at all costs. Adding to the thrills is a meandering burn that makes its presence known on five holes. This may be one of the best examples of a good old-fashioned links as exists in the home of golf.

The Brora experience is like stepping back in time and playing a round of golf the way it was played a century ago. And don't be disturbed by the sheep and cattle grazing the fairways, they have proved to be effective grounds-keepers. The greens filled with subtle undulations and dramatically sweeping turns, are immaculately maintained (by humans) and protected from the grazing animals with electric fences, an oddity that only adds to Brora's appeal.

Three little known courses, each with a charm, personality and challenge entirely of its own and the Highlands has many more. Miss out on playing at least one or two of these gems on your Scottish golf trip and you will be missing a very important part of the real Scottish golf experience. For more ideas and suggestions on including the best of Scotland's golf, click here.

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