Scotland's real golf gems: Some are hidden, most not

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Scotland is home to more than 550 golf courses, the vast majority with names unfamiliar to most visiting American golfers. Intent on playing a wish-list of the most famous, trophy courses during a week or so in the home of golf, most will miss the true treasures of the game -- those unsung heroes that provide perhaps the most genuine Scottish golf experiences of all.

Machrie - an historic gem of a links, surrounded by 7 distilleries.

Shiskine - Golf from an age gone by, but what a pleasure.

The 3 links challenges at Gullane share the same linksland as neighboring Muirfield.

Craigielaw offers a pure, unadulterated links experience.

Scotscraig is a genuine links with some unique twists.

Carnoustie's gigantic proportions only add to the test.

Panmure is a member of Scotland's Top 50 Club and was Ben Hogan's favorite links.

Murcar - skill and strategy will be more useful than brute strength.

Fraserburgh is another daunting links that flies under the radar.

Play the hidden gem at Fraserburgh, then try another audacious links at nearby Peterhead.

Tain - a wonderful Old Tom Morris design with the Glenmorangie whisky distillery next door.

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Stray even a few miles from the well-trodden path followed by most visitors and there are golfing wonders to enthrall even the most jaded golf traveler. Many of these courses, together with a sizeable number of more famous names, are participating in VisitScotland's "Drive It Home" promotion and are giving away free rounds of golf this year (see accompanying article) to show overseas visitors just how good they are...and I can assure you, they really are good, just take a look at this brief sampling.

Scotland's Southwest may be famous for its British Open venues at Prestwick, Royal Troon and Turnberry, or for many, the shining star in the golf galaxy that is the southwest, Western Gailes. But these are only the tip of the iceberg that conceals a wealth of other golf riches, too often overlooked.

The tiny island of Islay (population 3,000) is better known for the peaty, single malt whiskies produced by its 7 resident distilleries than for The Machrie, its solitary golf course. But what a wondrous links The Machrie is. Designed by the Scots golf hero, Willie Campbell and opened in 1891, this is good old fashioned links golf at its very best and a real treat for any who relish the opportunity to test their skills against the fickle ways of Mother Nature.

Friendly on the rare occasions when conditions are calm, The Machrie can become a monster when the winds pick-up and the real fun begins. Ranked among Scotland's Top 20 Courses, how this gem that sits just a short 30-minute plane ride from Glasgow Airport, is unknown to so many visitors, remains a Great Scot golf mystery.

Still in the southwest and only a 55-minute car-ferry ride from the mainland, is the small, picturesque Isle of Arran, often referred to as Scotland in miniature. Tourist's come here for the beauty and history of the island, but golfers and especially golf architects come to discover the amazing 12-hole links at Shiskine, a century old masterpiece of golf architecture.

Ignore the fact it's missing half a dozen holes and pit your abilities against a crusty old time classic, filled with blind shots and so many other idiosyncrasies of links golf in its original, pure form -- Shiskine is one for the memory book.

The small county of East Lothian sitting only a half hour's drive from Edinburgh, has played as important a role in golf's history as St. Andrews, yet still manages to escape the attention of many visitors. The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, the world's oldest golf club and authors of the original 13 rules of golf, presides over 15-time Open venue, Muirfield. North Berwick's 177 year old West Course, contains two of the most impersonated holes in golf and deserves to be experienced by far more visitors than is the case. And there are many more concentrated in this small area, the three links layouts at Gullane and the not so new, Luffness New Course, a character-filled Old Tom Morris design, among them.

But East Lothian's excellent golf is not limited to only centenarians and there are layouts of far more recent vintage that call out to be played -- a call that should be heeded. Craigielaw may be an unfamiliar name, but this 8 year-old youngster of a links took Scotland's golfing establishment by storm when it first opened to unanimous acclaim that East Lothian had birthed a new star, every bit the equal of its far older neighbors. Craigielaw has matured a lot during the ensuing years and a good thing has become even better, earning this sparkler a permanent position among East Lothian's best.

There's a similar story to be told about the exceptional heathland layout at Whitekirk, with its superb practice facilities, impeccable greens, stunning views and warm visitor welcome. Perhaps it's just as well East Lothian is not flooded with visitors, as that might take from the intimacy and very special feeling of being an honored guest.

St. Andrews and surroundings needs no introduction to any visiting golfer, but with so many super-star courses around, it's almost inevitable that at least a few very special golfing treats, manage to fly under the radar.

Lundin Links is only a 15 minute drive from the heart of St. Andrews, but for some, too inconvenient to drive to. Sadly, this is their loss, Lundin is a good old links that shouldn't be missed by any golfer. The original layout, by a designer unknown, dates from 1868, but some extensive restyling by the great James Braid half a century later, produced a beauty. Complete with a railway track running through the middle this is traditional links golf amid beautiful surroundings and a testy challenge good enough to make it a final qualifier for The British Open.

Drive in the opposite direction from St. Andrews, past Scotscraig, the 13th oldest golf club in the world and a very special links, more than worthy of attention. Proceeding across the Tay Bridge and into Angus, you are now in Carnoustie Country, home to the host of 7 British Opens and an impressive collection of other golfing plums with names less famous, but all calling out to be played.

Sharing the very same windswept coast as Carnoustie, the links at Monifieth shouldn't be resisted, but neither should nearby Panmure, where Ben Hogan refined his links game before winning The Open at Carnoustie in 1953. And only another 15 minutes drive along the shoreline sits glorious Montrose, an austere, and unforgiving classic links in the grand tradition, where golf has been played since the 16th century.

Aberdeen is the gateway to Scotland's whisky country; it's the stepping off point to visit one of the heaviest concentrations of ancient castles in the land and is the center of a select collection of top drawer golf courses. The links at Royal Aberdeen, Murcar and Cruden Bay have become much better known during recent years, but there are also some amazingly good layouts of far lesser fame.

Take a short hour's drive north of Aberdeen and Fraserburgh Links will reward you as few courses can. Parish records show that golf has been played on Fraserburgh Links since 1613 although it took another 158 years before Fraserburgh Golf Club was officially founded in 1771, making it the world's 7th oldest. This is where the Moray Firth and the North Sea converge, creating a unique microclimate where Mother Nature becomes even more cantankerous than usual. Be prepared for a bumpy ride around Fraserburgh's substantial sand dunes and an experience reminiscent of how golf must have been more than a century ago. Take time to recover in the clubhouse after your round -- it's one of the most welcoming you'll ever find.

If you are looking to sample the wares at a few whisky distilleries, to discover the dramatic beauty of the Highlands, or explore an ancient castle or two, make it a full day excursion and include a round on the delightful moorland layout at Ballater. It's only 45 minutes inland from Aberdeen, but takes you into another world and proves there's far more to Scottish golf than links alone.

The Scottish Highlands are as inspiring as the name implies and although top ranked Royal Dornoch and Nairn will no doubt be at the top of your must-play list, experiencing one or two of the hidden gems of these parts should be no less of a priority. There are plenty of them and if you have any appreciation for whisky, this is where it partners with golf, better than anywhere.

Play the links jewel called Brora, where sheep still graze the fairways and the Clynelish Distillery will be a short stroll from the clubhouse. There's a magnificent, but under-utilized, Old Tom Morris layout that combines links and heathland holes into a magical golf cocktail in the charming Royal Burgh of Tain and the Glenmorangie Distillery is on the door-step.

If you are still keen to experience more whisky and golf, include a round on Old Moray at Lossiemouth, another Old Tom Morris design dating from 1889 and all 40 plus distilleries of Speyside will be within easy striking distance. This is where some of the most prestigious names in whisky make their home - The Macallan, Glenlivet, Glenfiddich, Glen Elgin, Glenfarclas, Dalwhinnie and Strathisla, is just the beginning.

Scotland's inventory of courses is huge, it's of a consistently high quality and most are names still unfamiliar to the majority of overseas visitors. It takes no real effort to include at least a sampling of a few of these gems into any Scottish golf trip - it's something that will bring an entirely new and very intriguing dimension to your overall Scottish golf experience. I can only heartily recommend you do it.

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©2009 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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