TOUR LIFE TRAVEL

The Eastern Algarve: an undiscovered delight

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Aug. 19, 2008
By David Brice, Golf International Inc.

Anyone looking for the perfect vacation escape, regardless of the time of year, need look no further than Portugal's most southerly coastline, the charming region called, The Algarve. Boasting over 330 days of sunshine a year, more than any other part of Europe, the climate is ideal, seldom reaching much more than 80 degrees during the height of summer and never falling below the mid 60's, even during the coolest months of what Algarvean's call winter. More agreeable, year round weather, would be difficult, if not impossible to find.

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Barrier islands protect the shores of the Eastern Algarve
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Pousada (Hotel) Tavira was originally built in the 16th century as a convent
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Tavira's river front and Roman bridge
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Famous for its churches, Tavira boasts over 30 of them.
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Tavira's castle overlooks the entire town
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Cacela Velha - a Kodak moment
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The charming village of Castro Marim is dominated by its castle
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Vila Real de Santo Antonio's main square
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The Algarve's stunningly attractive coastline and pure, Atlantic washed beaches of golden sand are Europe's best and the wealth of excellent, world-class golf courses is unmatched, could anyone ask for more? While this may be enough to satisfy most in search of a real escape, it's only a taste of all this charmingly unique region has to offer its visitors.

With a history reaching back to the beginnings of time, when the Phoenicians, followed by the Romans and then the Moors occupied this intriguing country, to medieval days when, liberated by the crusaders, Portugal entered its Age of Discovery. Prince Henry the Navigator, Vasco da Gama and other explorers with names we vaguely remember from history books, set off from Algarvean shores to discover half of the then unknown world. The rich history and multi-faceted culture that resulted from these times, only adds to the region's intriguing fascination.

Filled with an astonishing variety of discoveries to be made by today's visitors, the golf, and climate may have first brought you to here, but miss even a sampling of the multitude of other attractions and you'll have wasted a wonderful opportunity. There is as much to see and do away from the golf courses as there are layouts that must be played.

The entire Algarve Coast is very manageable and only a brief 90 miles from it's westernmost point to the border with Spain in the east. Even this small area breaks into two natural halves, taking the regional capital of Faro as the separation of the two. Everything west of the city, the larger half, is the Barlavento or windward coast and for 30 miles east of Faro to the Spanish border is the Sotavento or leeward coast -- this is the undiscovered Algarve.

Protected by the barrier islands and lagoons of the Ria Formosa and Castro Marim National Parks, the Eastern Algarve may lack the dramatic sandstone cliffs of the west, but the area has a natural, unspoiled beauty entirely of its own. The beaches are among Portugal's very best and the landscape is dotted with ancient towns and fishing villages, untouched by time. Golf Courses are not as numerous as in the west, but the quality is top drawer, just as we have all come to expect from The Algarve.

No matter which courses of the Eastern Algarve you may be playing, Tavira, widely regarded as The Algarve's most beautiful town, will never be more than 15 miles away and cannot be missed. If you have plans to play Benamor, it's only a short 5 minute drive from town.You could even base yourself here for a few nights, perhaps staying in the delightful Pousada Tavira, a converted 16th century convent, situated in the heart of the town's old Jewish Quarter.

Straddling the River Gilao, Tavira's watery thoroughfare is lined with gardens, cafes, restaurants and centuries old houses. A pair of bridges, one dating from Roman times, links the two halves of the old town and its a maze of palaces, mansions, tiled houses and more than 30 churches. Overlooking all are the ruins of Castelo dos Mouros, a Moorish castle that was once part of a coastal defense system of more then 46 maritime forts guarding The Algarve Coast.

One of the great pleasures of this handsome old town is to be found in simply wandering the narrow winding streets, admiring the endless architectural delights and discovering the 4,000 years of history that lies hidden in every nook and cranny. While here, take a small side excusion to the tiny picture postcard village of Cacela Velha, sitting on a cliff-top above the sea, just 5 miles away. It's a Kodak Moment, just an old fort, a church, a few quaint houses and a couple of cafes, but in an idyllic setting, totally untouched by the modern-day world.

If you are playing golf at Castro Marim and Quinta do Vale, the charming village of Castro Marim will be at the doorstep and should be investigated. Sitting in the shadow of the remains of a 14th century castle, which was the first headquarters of the religious military order known as The Order of Christ, this was their prime position for spying on the Spanish border marked by the River Guadiana. The Moors still occupied Spain in those days and were a major threat to The Algarve's security. Today it's still a wonderful vantage point for spectacular views across into Spain, this eastern corner of The Algarve and the nearby nature reserve of Sapal de Castro Marim with its salt pans, marshes and impressive flocks of brilliant pink flamingoes.

It's only a few miles from Castro Marim to Vila Real de Santo Antonio, located on the banks of the River Guadiana, staring Spain directly in the eye. In 1774, the Marques de Pombal totally redesigned and rebuilt the town after a terrible flood had obliterated it, leaving behind his hallmark, grid-pattern of streets. Pombal, who completed the task in an amazingly brief, 5 month period, is still considered Portugal's greatest civil engineer ever and his efforts at Vila Real, one of Europe's best examples of 18th century town planning.

Enjoy and hour or two over coffee or a glass of wine at an outdoor café in the town square, watching the easy paced life of Vila Real pass by. If time permits, take a Guadiana River Cruise north or if you prefer take your own car along the riverside road, enjoying the same views of the river that becomes evermore picturesque the further north it travels.

The Eastern Algarve undoubtedly has a different character to its western cousin. It's a little more peaceful, slower paced and Mother Nature is always the main attraction, but what an attraction she is. Now with half a dozen superb courses there's every reason to combine a few days in this area, with at least a few mores in the better known, other half of this thoroughly enchanting and sun-blessed coast.

For more ideas and suggestions on how to get the most out of your Algarve escape, click here.

©2008 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Golf International -- Providers of quality golf travel arrangements since 1988.

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