Aberdeen's top ranked links courses are still waiting to be discovered
By David Brice, Golf International, Inc.
Scotland is a country blessed with many riches, not the least of which is the inventory of more than 550 golf courses that lie within her borders, many with names totally unfamiliar to the majority of American visitors. Intent on playing only the handful of a dozen or so trophy courses, those few privileged layouts that have hosted The British Open or some other international tournament, these visitors sadly and unwittingly, not only miss the very essence of Scottish golf, but some of the most enjoyable experiences in the entire golfing world.
Some might be termed as hidden gems and require a significant diversion away from the well-trodden path followed by other visiting golfers, while others are simply overlooked gems, living in the shadow of more famous, neighboring courses. Still others are honest to goodness, genuine jewels - the best, every bit the equal of the fabled trophy courses and on occasion, even better. Ignored, overlooked or forgotten for no fathomable reason, these can be the very best of all. Finding even one such layout is a discovery to brag about - discover a group of them and you have hit pay dirt.
Follow the treasure map to Scotland's third city of Aberdeen and you have the shortcut to golfing riches enough to astound even the most jaded golf traveler. One of the great mysteries of Scottish golf is how the magnificent cluster of excellent links courses surrounding this elegant city, has managed to fly under the radar of visiting Americans for so long, though anonymity may be drawing to a close.
Over the past couple of years, none other than Donald Trump has made a move in the area, purchasing 1,400 acres of virgin links coastline, just 10 miles north of Aberdeen. His hope is to build a luxury golf resort here, featuring two 18-hole links courses, a 450 room luxury hotel, 500 houses and golf villas, 1,000 vacation homes and who knows what else. But Mr. Trump has encountered a few problems in obtaining approval for his proposed $2 billion plus development.
The conservationists have ecological concerns for this unspoiled shoreline of gigantic sand dunes, the last of its kind, which is also home to several protected species of seabirds. Some of the local population have fears that Trump's motives maybe more geared toward financial gain and the development of expensive real estate rather than building a couple of traditional, links courses out of love of his Scottish roots.
The local Aberdeenshire government was divided on whether The Donald would be good or bad for the area, so the national Scottish Parliament stepped in, evidently with more concern for the economy than Mother Nature. They have taken all decision-making away from the locals and plan a public inquiry into the proposal - could it be hoping they can help Trump make his case? Scottish politics are as intriguing as our own. A final decision is expected before summer is over when we will see if Trump's proposal is for the birds or not.
Just in case "progress" should win, best get to Aberdeen before the bulldozers move in, so you can experience one of the most natural settings for links golf imaginable. Believe me, there is no shortage of excellent links layouts, all within 20 miles or so of the city center and a quarter of these are ranked among Scotland's Top Forty.
Topping the list is Royal Aberdeen Golf Club, founded in 1780 and the world's sixth oldest club. Ranked # 14 in Scotland, Royal Aberdeen's Balgownie Links is a stunning classic of the first order and one that rightfully belongs on every links connoisseur's must play list. Massive sand dunes, a devilishly cantankerous wind gusting in from the North Sea, rough to be avoided at all costs and for good measure, an infestation of almost 100 deep pot bunkers, all strategically positioned to collect the price for any errant shot.
Brimming over with history and a special character entirely of it's own, Royal Aberdeen guarantees a thriller of a ride from start to finish and perhaps a test better left for the big boys to tackle. Boasting what many consider to be the best front nine of any course in Scotland, the British Seniors Open, hosted here in 2005, has brought some celebrity status to a course that has been overlooked for far too long.
If Royal Aberdeen has been overlooked, it's Siamese twin neighbor, Murcar, has been absolutely ignored, something that should qualify as a crime. Immediately abutting each other, both links share the same gigantic dunes, erratic winds and coastline, together with equal, but subtly different challenges.
Murcar may lack some of the pedigree of its neighbor, but it works hard to make up for that with personality and its own brand of a links test. Big hitters have no advantage along the narrow, roller coaster fairways that snake their way around, over and through the sand dunes and delight in bouncing balls into the unforgiving rough -- pinpoint accuracy might be Murcar's greatest demand. Chances of a good score will be better on a calm day, but don't hold your breath, such occasions are very few and far between and if the wind is blowing hard, Murcar can be a monster.
Take a half hour drive along the coast, north of Aberdeen and one of Scotland's most picturesque links courses will be yours for the playing, historic Cruden Bay, ranked only a couple of positions behind Royal Aberdeen. Be prepared to step back in time and play a round of golf the way it was played a hundred years ago. This old timer is filled with every links trick its designer, the somewhat eccentric Tom Simpson, could incorporate when the course first opened in 1899.
Blind holes, jealously protected greens, craftily placed fairway bunkers, deep, greenside pot bunkers, meandering streams, teasing short holes, tempting long holes and the inevitable wind that seems to blow on a whim. Some find Cruden Bay a little cranky, others call it downright quirky, most find it great fun and anything but boring. Above all, it's a wonderful slice of golf history that will delight any serious golfer.
For any who may be looking for a real, 100% genuine, hidden gem of a links, you'll find Fraserburgh Golf Club a further 20 miles along the coast from Cruden Bay. Nobody back at your home club will have ever heard of the name, yet it's ranked among Scotland's Top Forty and will provide bar conversation material for years to come.
Founded in 1777, this is the world's 7th oldest golf club and it's feisty championship course, a James Braid redesign of the original layout, one of the most natural links courses you will ever find. It's well worth the extra few miles of driving to experience such an authentic piece of Scottish golf and an excellent course where you are likely to be the only overseas visitor. Just be prepared for an exceptionally warm welcome.
Heading back toward Aberdeen, Peterhead Golf Club, formed in 1841 and the world's 18th oldest club, offers another taste of golf history and one more opportunity to experience pure Scottish links golf at its most audacious. And there are still more links treasures awaiting those who will linger in Aberdeenshire a little longer and for a change of pace, there is an equally bountiful supply of inland layouts to impress any visitor. But as rich as the selection and quality of the golf in and around Aberdeen may be, it's only the beginning of all the area offers.
Aberdeen is the gateway to whisky country and the distilleries of the Scottish Highlands. Within half an hour's drive of the city center are some of the oldest whisky distilleries in the country, including Fettercairn, Royal Lochnagar and Glendronach. Only 20 minutes further and you will be in the heart of Speyside, the very heart of malt whisky production, with half of Scotland's distilleries concentrated into a small area of less than 200 square miles. Glenfiddich, Glenlivit, The Macallan and 40 more of whisky's most famous names make this a whisky aficionado's paradise.
Looking for some more traditional sightseeing? This northeast corner of Scotland boasts the greatest number of historic castles in the land and Aberdeen marks the beginning of the Castle Trail, a self guided tour of 13 of the very best, dating from the 13th to 18th centuries. From the fairytale magic of Craigievar Castle to the rugged splendor of the ruins of Kildrummy Castle, to the elegant timelessness of and grandeur of Leith Hall, it's an amazing collection, all very convenient to Aberdeen. Visit them all or view just a couple, the trail is easy to follow and clearly marked with road signs.
If fishing sounds more appealing, you couldn't have come to a better place. The River Dee is one of the longest and best salmon fishing rivers in all of Europe, entering the North Sea at Aberdeen after an 80-mile journey through the Grampian countryside. Traditionally the largest and greatest number of salmon are taken from the River Dee, not too far from Aberdeen. Revered by fly fishermen for its salmon, the Dee also offers equally good sport for those fishing with rod and reel looking for sea trout and grisle that begin to enter the river in May.
Conveniently spanning the best golfing months, the fishing season begins in early February and runs through the end of September and arrangements for the hire of a local ghillie (fishing's equivalent of a caddie) and rental of all the necessary equipment, can be easily made.
Combine Aberdeen with St. Andrews, the Highlands, the west of Scotland, or simply take Aberdeen neat and on its own - you'll have the makings of a very special Scottish golf trip. For a few more ideas, click here.
©2008 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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