Lisbon's Troia qualifies as one of the toughest layouts in Portugal
By David Brice, Golf International, Inc.
Portugal's capital of Lisbon is arguably one of Europe's most under-rated cities. Blessed with a wonderful year round climate and brimming over with irrepressible charm and personality, her rich heritage and history combine to make a thoroughly intriguing city that is difficult not to fall in love with. This is a city nobody can resist and with a population of less than 600,000, (no larger than Boston, Milwaukee or Seattle) it's compact, very manageable and literally demands exploration. But be warned, there is as much to see and do here as in other European cities, many times larger.
Comparing Lisbon with other European capitals is perhaps unfair as she has advantages that are the envy of most others, not the least of these is the surrounding Atlantic coastline. Dubbed The Lisbon Golf Coast for good reason, here, within a half hour drive or train-ride of the city center in either direction, lies a dazzling collection of two-dozen of Portugal's best golf courses, a quarter of which are also listed among Europe's top 100.
Spend a week in the Lisbon area, either staying in the heart of this vibrant city or in one of the delightfully chic beach side towns of the Lisbon Golf Coast and you won't have time enough to play even a fraction of the layouts that call out to be played. Hard decisions must be made and some will have to wait until your return Lisbon visit -- and be assured, you will be back.
Oitavos, Praia d'El Rey and Penha Longa lie to the west and north of the city and all three belong on any must play list, but so do several along the coast south of the city.
Head south from the city and a half hour drive brings you to another bevy of golfing treats. The names may be unfamiliar to American visitors, but the quality of golf is uncommonly high.
The two courses at Aroeira are enough to tantalize the most jaded golf traveler. It's only a further 12 miles to reach Quinta do Peru, another superbly challenging layout, ready to take on the best players. But top prize for those willing to drive a scant 15 minutes further is undoubtedly Troia Golf Club, a masterful design from our own Robert Trent Jones Sr.
Opened in 1981, Troia was immediately acclaimed Portugal's top course when the country had only 20 golf courses in total. 27 years on and with Portugal now boasting almost 80 courses, many still look upon Troia as the very best. Officially the ranking is number 3 in the country, and it remains firmly ensconced among Europe's Top Forty. Maturity has not lessened Troia's qualities one iota.
The course is as close to a true Scottish links layout as you will find in Portugal, occupying a narrow, sandy peninsula, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to one side and the estuary of the River Sado to the other. Trent Jones' design constantly zigzags back and forth, making each hole shoot off in a different direction to the last. The never-ending changes in wind direction only add to the test, which for many would be more than enough, even without the wind.
Measuring a very respectable 6,914 yards, Troia is a layout with a determination to separate the men from the boys, though not necessarily by strength alone. This is a very intelligent, if not brilliant design where any player must use their head and a good dose of course management. There are opportunities to spread the shoulders and hit with the driver and all of the force you can muster, but to do so without pinpoint accuracy could be a fatal mistake.
Unlike a truly classic links, the hazards are all clearly visible and there are no blind shots, but some of the bunkers are very serious and placed cunningly to pull any errant shot into a deep well that will punish as only Scottish bunkers know how. The undulating fairways are narrow and hemmed in by sand dunes and flourishing native pine trees.
The small greens, all well contoured, are protected by one of the strongest defense systems of bunkering you are ever likely to come across. Troia presents a true test of skills to the low handicapper and for those of more modest accomplishments, possibly a very frustrating experience - unless you remembered to pack a sense of humor along with those extra golf balls that will certainly be needed.
If you have the chance, don't miss the opportunity to experience this tough nut -- there is always something to be learned from tackling a well-designed layout and Troia is one that Trent Jones took great pride in. When asked to put together his dream course from all of the holes he had laid out in over 500 designs, he included the third at Troia.
Without a doubt, Troia is certainly one of the most fascinating and challenging courses on the entire Iberian Peninsula and for the serious golfer with a mastery of the game, a real gem to be savored and enjoyed to the fullest.
For a few ideas on how to include Troia and other championship courses around the Lisbon Golf Coast, click here.
©2008 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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